The collections that stood out after four weeks of runway shows this season had less to do with garments and more to do with new modes of presenting fashion. As per our seasonal recap, the shows that we will remember from spring 2022 are the lively experiments that redefined what a show could be, like Balenciaga’s The Simpsons episode, Balmain’s music festival, and Marni’s performance piece with an audience fully outfitted in upcycled Marni wares.
But what of silhouette, texture and color, and material development? The emphasis on shows and showiness actually seems to have freed up designers’ thinking when it comes to clothes We got everything from Grecian draping at Loewe to exposed torsos at Miu Miu and crisp little skirt suits at Christian Dior. Marine Serre and Dries Van Noten put an emphasis on you-have-to-touch-it texture while Botter’s Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh and Sunnei’s Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo created sleek surfwear and stripes that come alive on a laptop or phone screen.
So if you’re looking for the trends to watch out for in the coming season, keep your eyes peeled for shows that experiment with new ways of presenting fashion, silhouettes that are both classic and fresh, textures that beg to be touched, and color combinations that are high impact.
Here are the expected trends that will for sure define the Spring of 2022:
1. Exposed torsos and unsaturated colors at Loewe: At Loewe, there was an emphasis on undone perfection with models walking the runway in sexy lingerie styled tops that showed off their midriffs paired with billowing trousers. The color palette was kept minimalistic with pale pinks, blues, and neutrals.
2. Grecian draping and peplums at Balenciaga: The collection by Demna Gvasalia took the familiar ’90s silhouettes from past seasons of overly draped fabric and went about making them sleek with sloped shoulders, a cinched waist, and just-above-the-knee hemlines. Pants were wider than the final runway looks but still beautifully cut. The color palette included light blue, dusty pink, white leather, pale yellow chiffon layered over black skirts, nude tops over black pants with a peplum effect at the hips.
3. Slick surfwear and stripes by Botter Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh and Sunnei Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo: These four designers collaborated to present a collection that celebrates the striped, sporty, and sexy styles of Italian beach culture. The models strutted down the runway in body-hugging one-pieces, oversized sweaters, and high-waisted trousers with a stripe running down the leg. Colors were kept limited to black, red, navy blue, and sand.
4. Bold graphic prints on clothes as art pieces at Vetements: At Vetements, there was an interesting juxtaposition of delicate and bold prints with a focus on volume. Oversized sweaters, billowing skirts, and long dresses had playful graphics in black and white or color that took center stage as art pieces.
5. Marni’s performance piece with an audience fully outfitted in upcycled Marni wares: At her latest show, Consuelo Castiglioni had a room full of people wearing clothes made entirely from recycled materials. This included repurposed men’s suiting and T-shirts, scarves, dresses, jackets, coats, blazers—all hand-sewn by artisans in Milan using fabrics harvested from old garments.
6. The return of playing with proportion—shorter tops paired with long skirts or pants: At Loewe’s fall collection, there were some super cute 60s styles that were given a modern spin with slouchy trousers and an emphasis on cropped sweaters over full skirts or high-waisted pants.
7. Overlapping layers like a waterfall of cloth: Oversized layers were seen at Balenciaga, Marni, and Marine Serre. This trend gives a sense of movement and flow to an outfit.
8. Casual suiting with a youthful vibe at both Christian Dior and Miu Miu: Both houses showed collections with trousers, blazers, and skirts that could easily be worn as street clothes. There was a focus on relaxed shapes, natural fabrics, and playful prints.
9. Lots of texture whether it be you-have-to-touch-it like at Marine Serre or Dries Van Noten or playful as at Botter: Texture is key for the spring season as it can add visual interest and depth to an outfit.
10. A focus on sustainability and upcycling by various designers including Marni and Marine Serre: Eco-friendly fashion is becoming more and more important to consumers, and designers are responding with collections made from sustainable materials and featuring upcycled pieces.